Sunday, April 15, 2012

Atacama Part 2 - Guest-blogged by Alan (aka Grandpa) with notes by me

Rob, Jonathan and I planned to wake up at 4:30 to leave on a tour company excursion to an enormous geyser field in which volcanos are embedded including El Tatio.  I got up first, started to wash when all the lights in the building went out. I found my little flashlight, woke up Jonathan with whom I am sharing a bedroom and we staggered around to get ready. The lights finally went on but not until there was a fair amount of confusion.

Love!

The field is at 14,000 feet and reached by a curvy semi paved road which has to be traversed in the dark to reach the display at its daybreak maximum spectacularness. It was 20 degrees Fahrenheit where we got off to walk around and have breakfast. We bought knitted hats and used socks for gloves. The young Europeans and Brazilians who made up the rest of our 11 person group stripped to bikinis and went into the hot pools. Jonathan got his feet wet and Rob and I watched. 


I can't get enough of them!


Others swam - J. just dunked his hands and toes in



Lots of vicunas, Viscacha, which are little rabbit/rats, and llamas.  Also a number of local birds whose names I can't remember except for the Andean duck.  

Vicuna

Andean duck?

At one of the stops, Jonathan marked the trip with a display of altitude-induced stomach violence which was soon treated with coca leaf tea like Evo Morales and everybody else here recommends.

Don't worry - he won't be drug-tested for a while.
Not to be completely outdone, we planned a group trip back the next day.  To be continued when we get back to Santiago.

Saturday, April 14, 2012

Atacama Part 1

My Dad is visiting us right now and accompanying us on our adventures.  Although not a blogger, he is a chronicler of his world travels.  He usually sends out e-mails to friends and family detailing his adventures so I am using his e-mails as a starting point (in red) and adding some additional commentary.

At about noon, Sarah and I set out for the school to get the kids and go to the airport. Rob was going to meet us at the airport. About a mile from the apartment, we heard a noise, stopped the car and discovered a flat tire. Panic! But I looked around and found a tire store on the corner. The guy quickly came with a jack and put on the spare, after I intimated that I was a gringo on my way home. After arriving at the school, Sarah's cell phone rang and she was told to come to the infirmary. Elisa was there with a smashed finger.  Twenty minutes before school got out, apparently Elisa tripped on a chair and landed on her ring finger.  We happened to be at school early for pick-up because I always go early to find a parking spot (of course, I usually go even earlier but as my Dad said we got a flat tire on the way there).  The nurse called me and after seeing the wound suggesting running to the emergency room.  Of course, we had 2:45 before our plane took off so we were a bit panicked on several levels.  Turns out that she broke the top bone on her finger and the nail came off – makes sense given the amount of screaming that she was doing.  The ER Dr. didn’t want her to go on the trip but the school nurse and my pleading face got him to give in and bandage her up super well so that she wouldn’t get any sand/dirt in it and also gave her some prophylactic antibiotics. Sarah took a cab to the airport and we all successfully met there and are now on the plane on our way to Atacama after a general prophylactic course of Argentine matzah.  Long story short we all made it here.  

The boys
We drove an hour through the proverbial lunar landscape from the Calama airport to San Pedro de Atacama where we managed to spend 45 minutes looking for our hostel.  


As we were driving from Calama to San Pedro de Atacama, here are some of the quotes from family members in the car:

Rob:  I like the trees ;-)  It’s desolate and not very inviting.
Jonathan:  That was the smallest airport I’ve ever been to.
Renee:  I like the landscape.  I can see the horizon.

Success followed by dinner in the closest greasy spoon chicken place. By then Jonathan and I were the only ones who wanted to stay up and explore. So he and I walked 15 minutes to town, passed a barber shop where he refused to get a crew cut to surprise his parents (he claims the school is trying to get him to cut since he is serving as a bad foreign example to the local boys), and then had coffee and juice at a local restaurant. As we were walking home counting gift shops,the girls outside the bars were trying to get us to come in. I had to explain that he didn't drink much.

San Pedro de Atacama is the main “city” (population without tourists of around 2,000) in the region.  Although we learned from the local history museum that it has gone through several incarnations, today it is the kick-off point for many tours in the region and the site of many hostels and any backpackers.  It was finally confirmed when I walked by a small empanada “store” and Bob Marley was blaring out of it.  We fit in splendidly!  



We are actually staying at a hostel a bit out of town for the promised relative quiet and also to have a place with a kitchen to continue to make our fried matza and matza meal pancakes.  

Take note of the bandaged up right hand :-(
Not all of us are pleased with declining the obligatory bread and pulling out our box of matza but it will all be over soon.  The good news is that rather than survive on the cheap eats of pizza, hot dogs, and empanadas, we have gone to two good restaurants in town.  



After dinner last night, we had to walk through some very dark areas of town to get to the hostel and Renee said “It looks just like a planetarium!”  She’ll kill me for including that but Mrs. Craft (the teacher at her elementary school who brought them to the school planetarium once a month) would be proud of her constellation ID even in the Southern Hemisphere.

We spent the morning wandering through town and going to the local history/archeology museum where they had enough English translation, pictures, and icons to get the idea.  Based on the reviews, I was expected a town full of cats and dogs so Renee was ready.  Unfortunately, there were many more dogs than cats in the street but this little guy showed up at our hostel.  Look like anybody some of you might know?


As would be expected, the hostel did not lend itself well to sleep and at least my #1 needs her sleep.  Between groups getting up between 3-5am to go see geysers up in the mountains, groups coming in late, and my father getting up to take care of business several times during the night, it has been tough.

After resting a bit in the afternoon, we headed to Laguna de Chaxa in Reserva Nacional “Los Flamencos.”  It is part of a large salt flat with lagoons south of San Pedro.  It is most famous for being the habitat for flamingos and we were not disappointed.  There are three types of flamingos that hang out here and in the surrounding areas – Chilean, Andean and James.  I believed that we mostly saw the Andean but here are a few photos for identification Max!  While where we were was really flat, the Andes with many volcanoes were always to the east and another smaller range is to the west creating this unique habitat.

Salt flats
Mmmmm - tasty




Rob's work "colleagues" in the background
We have already blogged about our favorite advertisement for BCI bank.  The characters take on a different look up here.


Saturday morning Rob, Jonathan and my Dad woke up at 4:30 or so to take a trip to the geysers.  That will follow once I get their input.

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Chilean License Plates - co-blogged with Renee

As we are putting together our list of what we will miss the only thing that Renee can come up with is Chilean license plates.  Given that, I thought that we would co-write a blog about them.  Pepe's Chile does a good job of explaining the types but Renee goes a step further by explaining her fascination with the numbering/lettering system.

The typical Chilean license plate has three sets of two numbers or letter.  The first set is always letters, the second set is either, and the third is always numbers.  Going back to your junior high school math class that give you 26*26*36*36*10*10 or 87,609,600 combinations.  Unfortunately, this leads to enough to cover the entire country so there was no car game to find license plates from every region on our long car trip.  This is ours:



There are no vanity plates, so Renee's game is to use the abbreviations to come up with cute phrases. She has had to memorize the first 36 elements of the periodic table this year (in Spanish - Helio, Fierro, Escandio) so that has added a bit of intrigue.  For some reason Texas has been the only state to appear as an abbreviation so there is no chance to really practice those.

Here are some of Renee's recent favorites:

Pink Dog - In our building garage and a "pink" car

CT LG 82 - Cat laugh
CH HD 19 - Chile hazard 19
CW BY 11 - 11 cowboys
BY KD 63 - Bye kid (seen on the way to school)
DD DD 43 - just fun to say


ND 90 46 - My own siting - seen on the day of the NCAA Women's Basketball Final - Notre Dame vs. Baylor.  I thought that it was a nice omen but.....it ended up being BU 80 61






Monday, April 9, 2012

Passover/Easter in the Southern Hemisphere

What seems normal to folks here is all flip-flopped to us.  All the spring imagery just seems wrong.  Passover is also knows as Chag Ha'aviv or the Spring Holiday but they don't rename it down here to Chag Ha'stav (Fall Holiday).  I was inspired to make ratatouille and a salad using fresh pomegranates which I would normally make around Rosh Hashanah.  While the stores are full of Easter chocolates wrapped in pastel papers, there were no little girls in their Easter dresses and bonnets (the cold doesn't stop those in the Northern Hemisphere but perhaps the imagery is too much).  On Good Friday we just lay low but finally got to the Parque Metropolitano, a huge public park on a hill right off of downtown Santiago.  It is the same park with San Cristobal and with the zoo but we headed to some trails in the woods this time and also hit the Japanese garden.  We even collected leaves for Elisa's school project.


We were invited to participate in a seder with the expatriate Israeli community.  There were 12 families and over 50 people in a small room but with an outdoor extension where the kids ran around.  Although we missed our friends and family and it was complete chaos, it was nice to hear the same story and tunes no matter where you are in the world.  As often happens, the only time that everybody was "on the same page" was for Ma Nishtanah.  A lot was different this night!


Here I am at my parents' seder in Palo Alto the same night!



On Easter, for lack of more creative things to do, we headed down to Plaza de Armas to check out the mass at the Catedral de Santiago where, in addition to seeing who I assume was the Archbishop of Santiago (complete with his kippah), we saw our favorite miner.




Oh yeah, and I went for a cat "run" with Renee at La Vega (the large market close to downtown) before Mass.

or maybe even in reverse?



We are headed to San Pedro de Atacama on Thursday for a few days to get a better feel of how the Israelites felt after the exodus from Egypt.  We are planning four days not forty years which will probably be more than enough.

One major bummer - unlike in the States, the day after Easter does not result in majorly discounted Easter candy.  I planned my grocery shopping trip for Monday morning and was extremely disappointed to find that instead of discounting it they clear it out!

Sunday, April 8, 2012

Some other "new" fruit

A new berry in my repetoire - Murtilla - apparently only found in Southern Chile and adjacent areas in Argentina.  We meant to get some of its jam but apparently the season was just beginning when we were visiting.



Lucuma -  This is apparently a "super" fruit filled with lots of good things for you.  I haven't actually seen the fruit yet but it is a very popular ice cream flavor here that we tried once.  Guess that you had to grow up with it.





Pepino - I saw a sign with "Pepino" at a Farmer's Market and it stumped me.  My very basic Spanish, which includes the ingredients that usually go in an American style salad, includes the word pepino that means cucumber.  Ah, no.  It also means Solanum muricatum or Pepino Dulce.  The vendor immediately noticed my intrigue and offered a sample which, of course, led to a purchase.  It sort of tastes like a melon/pear mix.  Tasty but not sure I'd buy it again.  Apparently it damages pretty easily so has not been exported much from its native South American Andean habitats.



Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Cochayuyo (Durvillaea antarctica)

OK.  It is actually the local sea kelp.  They are selling a lot of it right now on street corners and at the ferias (farmers markets) so I had to buy some and then ask Marcela to show me what to do with it.  She warned me ahead of time that it would not be on the top ten list for the kids but I figured why not try it.



We haven't seen it served in people's homes or at restaurants so I did a bit of investigating and found the following:

Like many other traditional Chilean foods (chilies, garlic, lamb) it is associated with poor, rural, and even worse, indigenous Chileans. In her PhD dissertation, Identities, Racial Mixing and Social Differences in Osorno, Chile: Readings from the Anthropology of Food,Chilean anthropologist Sonia Monecino Aguirre argues that:

This is what has occurred with luche [another seaweed] and cochayuyo among the middle and upper classes; they are an adult feminine taste [what does that mean?????] rejected by children and youths, as well as adult men. We have encountered cases where women “clandestinely” with their employees, or even alone, prepare dishes of cochayuyo that only they eat, preparing another dish for the rest. …..Cochayuyo is an important social marker associated with poverty, and in the past, as a vicarious substitute for meat, thus it has negative symbolism among the social scale of foods.[5]

So I decided to not so clandestinely have Marcela prepare a dish and then place photos on my blog - hah!

Bought at the Farmers Market this morning

Prepared by Marcela

and the reviews are:

Rob - tasty - sort of like mushrooms
Sarah - tried it and spit it out - so much for an "adult feminine taste"
Renee - what is that smell?
Jonathan - ew, gross (without tasting it)
Elisa - no comment


Experiment over.

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Fiestas de la vendimia

For no other reason except that we are only in Chile for one year, we decided to check out a local wine festival.  The two biggest ones are in Santa Cruz in the Colchagua Valley (back in February) and Curico (last weekend).  There are a few that are closer to Santiago including one that was this weekend in Pirque, the home of Concho y Toro.  We were most interested in grape stomping but unfortunately we didn't show up at the right time but we still took in some of the local culture and I (and the kids) drank a bit of wine.


Chile just passed a zero-tolerance law for drinking and driving so Rob was the designated driver

The kids enjoyed giving their own reviews

I overheard one vendor say in Spanish that we must come from a different culture.  I don't know if he was talking about Jonathan's hair "style" or about his mature tastes in beverages.

Anticuchos - they used celery to spread the marinade (a chimichurri).  They got a thumbs up from all three kids.


Ice cream and chocolate covered fruit - joy!

Jonathan discovered that he is a natural marksman - oy!

First time we have spotted corn (obviously, this is not Indiana!)