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| View from our hostel of Volcano Licancabur (17,700 ft) |
On Saturday evening we headed to Valle de la Luna to see what was supposed to be a spectacular sunset over a moon-like landscape. Although it was, as advertised, just 10 minutes outside of town, we decided to follow the signs and ended up driving on a dirt road between signs for land mines for a while (OK, quite a while) before giving up and turning around (apparently there was a turn-off that was blocked off that we missed). We headed back and found a lookout area where many cars were parked to watch the sunset. My Dad said "These people seem to know something" to which Elisa replied "We don't know anything." How quickly they learn. There were several tour buses laying out a sunset snack complete with pisco sours - I resisted crashing the party.
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| One of many roads to nowhere but this one did not ever seem to lead anywhere. |
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| Valle de la Luna |
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| The Bennett lips on display with rabbit ears care of Renee. |
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| Only shot of the full party - there is a cool sunset over the volcano that is a bit washed out |
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| The "flower" Renee found near Valle de la Luna |
Based on the reviews of the geysers, we tried to find a tour for the next morning for the "girls" but they either left too early or were too expensive. Also, the prospect of waking up that early to freeze was not that appealing to me. Rob and my Dad spoke to the guy who arranged the first trip who suggested driving there during the morning and then driving back to the airport through a different area. We headed up at around 10:00 and realized quickly why it would not have made sense to go up ourselves in the dark - between blown-out bridges, badly marked detours, and just basic barrenness.
Luckily we had our "ship of the desert" - a Hyundai H1 - brought back memories of our minivan but just on a bigger scale.
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| Returned with only a small dent and a lot of matza crumbs |
Based on Jonathan's experience the day before, we chugged tea made from the coca leaves on the way up and nobody ended up having any problems. Afterwards, I read a bit about altitude sickness and realized that you don't really mess with being at 14,000 ft! I was most excited to see the vicuna and any other animals along the way as well as being on the altiplano. I was not disappointed by either and enjoyed the geysers as well.
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| Llama |
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| The vicuna are really elegant especially when they run. |
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| We were way up there! Those peaks were closer to 19,000, I think. |
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| The good news is that they really were videoing the geysers and not playing games ;-) |
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The altiplano - the highest volcano in the region, which was a bit north, is LLullaillaco (22,110 ft).
We could see it as we came down and from the airport (this isn't it). |
We headed back through some small towns including one that was in a canyon and used terraces to grow something. We actually promised a ride to a woman waiting at the entrance to the town. When we returned to pick her up she was with her mom and child as well. They all piled in and our kids were amazed that we would do it but we had the room with our Hyundai H1! She lives a day's hitching/bus ride away near the Bolivian border and comes every 2 months to look after her mother's aged sister.
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| Village of Caspana |
We ate lunch in a small town where I ate a rainbow trout that is native to the region. It came "whole" and my kids could not believe I would eat it. They need to get out more ;-)
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Many of Calama's landmarks have names that include Cobre (Copper).
It is one of the centers of the copper and other mining industries as well as the closest airport to San Pedro de Atacama. |
BTW, one bonus to the health care system here is that at private schools you pay a little every month and then if you have a traumatic injury either at school or at home it is covered completely. I haven't nor will we pay a cent for Elisa's finger which, by the way, after being "set" this morning is on her way to recovery.
I am actually blogging from the Estadio as my Dad watches Jonathan swim with Elisa on the sidelines with her hurt finger. I mentioned to my Dad that Elisa swims like a fish and she said "I'm a fish that got dead" - neither correct in English nor Spanish! We assured her that she would be revived very soon.
Sarah,
ReplyDeleteThis series on the Atacama desert is so inspiring! At times it looks very much like the salt flats in Death Valley, with the high mountains all around. Of course, with the geyers it is a whole different kettle of fish, not at all like Yellowstone (which is a whole lot greener). Must go one day. Maybe I can use these photos to prod Peter?!
So sorry to hear about Elisa's finger. I suspect the break was not the worst part - loosing a nail is just agonizing. So Elisa flew with her briken finger and then had it set in Atacama?
More on the land mines please!
If the kids thought a whole fish was bad - imagine a whole chicken. First food in China did not go over well with the kids.
I have heard that chewing the cocoa leaf is good for altitude sickness, and also a mild hallucinigen. Yes? Did it help you sleep?
In-laws visiting again this past week, and then my mom arrives next Tuesday. Then we will be done with visitors until fall I think.
Interesting wild-life. Any chance of a photo of that rabbit/rat? Are they only out at dusk, like the jack-rabbits in the desert Southwest?
Did you know you could sign up for Swanson on-line? It sounds like Sarah has some work to do to catch up to Elisa on swimming. You may finally be free at the pool during the summer. Lucky!